Sunday mass has finished at Zambujeira do Mar, Alentejo, Portugal. I watch the locals, mostly old people, as they leave the small whitewashed church. At the beach below, women in topless play dangerous games with Helios, the sun. Old men watch them from the security of the walls above. A nun stays behind and talks to someone. I can almost hear a voice saying, 'Ite, missa est' - 'Go, for it is over'.